Can You Make Him Look Like That?

A constant note of discord between owners and groomers, is the owner's faithful perception that we, as groomers, can do anything.  It's flattering, but unfortunately it's unrealistic.  That gorgeous photograph you found of a Westminster grand champion is indeed a very pretty dog- but we can't make your dog look like that.

Why not?

Well, for a few reasons.  First, I'll address the reasons why a pet dog cannot look like a show dog.

1. Genetics

Most pet owners are not looking for a show dog when they buy a puppy- and therefore, most pet owners do not end up with a show dog.  Show dogs are not pets that people simply dolled up and threw in a show ring.  They are meticulously bred to meet very exacting physical standards, and have long and distinguished pedigrees of equally well-bred dogs.  There is nothing wrong with not owning a show dog, you simply need to understand that a dog with 10 generations bred for looks, is going to look better than a dog bred for other reasons.  We can only work inside the realm of what your dog has to work with, and if that means his coat is too thin, too wavy, too curly, or otherwise different from that "perfect" show dog- well, we can't fix that.  That doesn't mean he can't still be cute.

2. Lifestyle

Again, show dogs ARE show dogs- they are brushed and bathed constantly.  Some are even bathed every single day.  Long hair is rolled up into wrappers to keep it from getting dirty or damaged.  They do not get to play outside in the mud.  There are no little children creatively coloring them in with markers.  Every day is spent training, grooming, and primping.  Pet owners cannot match this.  Most pet dogs are bathed and groomed every 2-3 months.  The stains that build up in the meantime cannot be undone with one good bath.  Nor can a shaggy matted coat be brought into glossy silk perfection in one grooming.  Unless you want to live the life of a show-dog owner, your dog will not have that coat.  (And frankly, don't you think pet dogs have way more fun?)

3.  Grooming

When you have your dog groomed, you expect a bath, a haircut, a nail trim.  A good brushing.  Show dogs receive much, much more than that.  Ever wonder what makes their hair so straight and silky?  Hair products and flat irons.  How does their white get so white?  Heavy powdered chalk is worked into their coat before a show to make them appear flawlessly white- in reality, they have some staining and discoloration even in spite of their constant bathing.  Those perfect markings?  Often drawn-on with stick chalks.  Shiny coats?  Lots and lots of spray-on oils and conditioners.  That flawless Poodle pouf?  Hairspray and Southern-style teasing combs.  If it would really make you happy, we could do all those things for you- but it would only last about 5 minutes.  If you ever attend a show, you'll see that the handlers are hard at work grooming the dogs the entire time.  They only stop long enough to enter the ring, and as soon as they get out, they're fluffing and trimming and chalking for the next ring.  It's no different than a human beauty pageant- it's not a sustainable reality.

4.  Training

Show dogs are raised from birth to stand quietly and politely for grooming, even if it takes hours.  Pet dogs are not.  Groomers make the most of the time the dog is relatively calm, because after a while they typically start getting bored and dancing around with impatience.  Flawless scissoring isn't possible on a moving target.

Part 2

So aside from the Show Dog vs Pet Dog, what other reasons are there for groomers not being able to fulfill your photographic wishes?

1.  Breeds Vary

Even within a breed, there are a lot of differences in coat, size, texture, etc.  We'll do our best to imitate a cut, but if the dog pictured has a fuller or flatter coat, it may not look quite the same.

2.  Puppy Pictures

8 week old puppies are adorable.  That's why people buy them.  Unfortunately, they grow up.  No groomer can make an adult dog look like a 2-month old puppy again.  We can clip them down to a similar length, but the fluffy puppy hair will never come back again- nor will the sweet puppy face.

3.  Wrong Breed

The picture you found of a Yorkie might be adorable, but if you have a Lhasa Apso, there are going to be some technical difficulties in trying to get the haircuts to match.  Again, we can do our best, but we can't transform your dog into a new breed altogether.

Bottom line?  Try to be realistic in what you're looking for.  Be honest with yourself about how much brushing you really want to do between grooms.  Let your dog enjoy life without being hampered by insane hairdos.  And realize that your groomer is trying their very best to give you want you want, even if it's impossible.  

Part 2: Choosing Your New Companion

A quick overview of how and where to find a dog or puppy for you.  Second section of the previous post regarding choosing a breed for you.



Dog or Puppy?

The very first decision you'll need to make is whether to start with a young puppy, or an adult dog.

Everybody wants a puppy because puppies are cute.  Unfortunately, it only takes a few minutes on Craigslist or any other classifieds to see hundreds of puppies being re-adopted.  Why?  Because puppies are extremely hard work.  Proper housebreaking requires potty breaks every 1-2 hours for the first several weeks.  Small puppies need frequent meals to regulate their blood sugar.  Puppies often don't sleep well at night, leaving you exhausted.  And of course, they wander, chew, dig, and break every house rule they haven't learned yet.

There are advantages to having puppies.  If you have a family or other pets, it's easier to imprint puppies on how to interact with them properly.  You can train a puppy to recognize the name you want to use, and the commands you want to use.  House rules like staying off furniture are easier to train young.

Adult dogs bring their own advantages.  They're already housebroken.  If you're adopting from a rescue, and frequently even if you're not, adult dogs are typically vaccinated and possibly spayed/neutered already.  Adult dogs are cheaper to acquire- even rescues often charge extra for young puppies.  You know exactly how big the dog will be and what it will look and act like, so there won't be any surprises.

The decision is ultimately a personal one- just make sure you look at all the pros and cons, and try to choose based on what is best for your family and the pet you're bringing home- and NOT your overwhelming desire to snuggle with a cute puppy for a few months.  No matter what age the dog starts out, they all end up adults.  Puppyhood should not be what drives you to bring home a pet.


Breeder or Rescue?

Once you've decided what age you want, the next question is, where to get the puppy from?

Pet stores are a no-no.  They've insinuated themselves into our culture and made us believe they are normal and acceptable places to buy pets.  The reality is, no good breeder will sell puppies to a pet store.  Pet stores are 100% driven by puppy mills.  I will not waste blog space going into detail about these places, but if you don't know what a puppy mill is, follow the link for information.

http://www.aspca.org/fight-cruelty/puppy-mills


Breeders are the best choice if you want to start with a puppy.  You can often find puppies for re-homing, but if you're not getting a puppy directly from the source, you're losing out on many advantages.  A breeder can show you the parents, talk to you in detail about the bloodlines the dog comes from, show you health certifications regarding hips, elbows, eyes, hearts, etc., that prove how healthy the dog's family was, etc.  A good breeder can predict with great accuracy the size, color, and temperament an individual puppy will attain.  If you get a puppy second-hand, all you have to go on is what the first purchaser remembered, and possibly a few scraps of paperwork they thought to save.  It's not wrong to get a puppy from someone else, it simply leaves you with less information.

Breeders often have adults available as well.  Good breeders have a "return" policy so to speak, wherein they will always take back any dog they have sold for any reason if you are not able to keep it.  They will often find good homes for these dogs if that happens.  Other times they will offer retired show or breeding dogs for companion homes when their careers are over.  Many even do rescue work and help adopt out dogs that did not come from their bloodlines.  These are all great options.

Rescue comes in many forms: shelters, private rescues, and classified rehomings.  Whatever option you choose, there are a few things to remember.  First, YOU need to be in charge of choosing your companion.  Don't let whoever you're speaking with try to talk you into a certain dog- they mean well, but often they'll push the dogs who are older or have been at the shelter the longest, without regard to whether it's truly the best fit for you.  Set down guidelines for what you want BEFORE you step foot in a shelter or open a single picture online.  Those sad faces lead to rushed decisions, and often, to the dogs being returned to the shelter shortly afterwards.  Put limits on size, age, hair, etc. before you start, so you won't be tempted to bring home the first cute face you see.

If you're looking at private rehoming, anything over $200 is really a sale price- be leery of anyone "selling"  a dog for a ridiculous price.  Also be sure to get any vet records or registration papers in hand before you take the dog, don't agree to get them "later on".  The biggest concern with private rehomings is that there are a lot of scams out there nowadays.  Unless you feel truly confident in tackling this, stick with a reputable rescue group instead.

Choosing a Breeder

If you do go the breeder route, the first thing you need to know is all breeders are not created equal.  There is a line drawn between  "good" breeders, and "backyard" breeders.  If you're paying good money for a specific puppy, you want to make sure it's a "good" breeder.

The first thing you need to do is read through your breed's standard.  (Links at the bottom of the page.)  The purpose of a good breeding program is to breed dogs which adhere to the written standard of the breed.  A surefire way to find bad breeders is to look for catchwords like "super micro teacup", "ultra rare colors", and things along that line.  Those breeders are trying to make money by breeding dogs intentionally outside the standards and hoping people will pay for their "uniqueness".  These breeders ruin purebred dogs.  If a dog is supposed to weigh 50lbs, breeding them to weigh 100lbs is directly damaging to their gene pool.  It's also just plain silly.  We have over 200 breeds of dogs available to choose from, why ruin the ones we have to try to make them into something else?

The second concern is health testing.  This does not mean the dog has been to the vet this year and gotten his vaccines.  Health tests look for potential genetic issues in the bloodline.  German Shepherds and Golden Retrievers for example, should always have hip and elbow checks done.  The breeder should have information on both parents, and probably the entire bloodline if they're any good.  Other breeds are prone to heart conditions, eye problems, genetic blood disorders, and so forth.  Again, more research is needed on your part!  Learn what your breed is prone to, and demand to see the health testing for it.  If a breeder doesn't have any advanced health testing, run away.

Good breeders will typically only breed one type of dog, MAYBE two.  Always be wary of breeders with 3 or more types of puppies available- they're typically in it only for the money.

Depending on what type of dog you're getting, you want to see some sort of qualification for breeding.  Simply having a male and female dog, even if they are both registered, does NOT qualify for a good reason to breed.  Breeding programs are built around proving the dogs meet the requirements of their breed.  This can include AKC/UKC show titles (champion, grand champion, etc), working events such as agility, terrier racing, lure-coursing, field hunting trials, Schutzhund, Search & Rescue, Therapy dog certifications, mushing (dog sledding), and so forth.  Different breeds are meant for different things, and each breed will have a set of activities to show off their intended purpose.  If a breeder is not participating in any functional activities, they are not breeding quality dogs.  How can you have a well bred Labrador if you've never hunted with them?  What is the point of breeding a terrier that won't trail vermin?  When you breed for the sake of breeding, you lose the qualities that make each breed unique, and you damage the gene pools further and further with each litter of puppies.

If you find a breeder who is breeding to the standard, has the appropriate health testing done, and works/shows their dogs, you are in the clear.  Different breeders will have different standards at this point (some will want to pick out a puppy for you, some will want you to travel to them instead of shipping the puppy, etc.) but if those 3 big things are in place, there's no much chance you've found a backyard breeder, so the various quirks of the individual breeder are less important.


Choosing a Rescue

Rescues and shelters are even more varied than breeders.  If you're looking for a purebred, there are many purebred rescue groups in most states.  There are also SPCA and Humane Society shelters, city pounds, and more.  Petfinder.com is a great place to get started, many shelters and rescue groups post their available animals to this website for better exposure.

As with anything, look into the group you want to work with ahead of time- there are scammers out there posing as rescues.  These groups often pick up animals from "free to good home" ads online or other cheap sources, and then "adopt" them out with exorbitant fees.   And again, be careful with private adoptions.  In addition to charging overpriced fees, private owners may try to give you a sick or injured dog, or a stolen animal.  Worse, there have been incidents with some websites where people coming to meet potential pets have been attacked, mugged, carjacked, etc.  Never go to look at a pet alone, always bring at least one person with you and tell someone where you'll be going and how long you'll be- safety first.


References

Breed Standards
AKC:  https://www.akc.org/breeds/complete_breed_list.cfm
UKC:  http://www.ukcdogs.com/Web.nsf/WebPages/DogEvents/BreedStandards

Petfinder:  http://www.petfinder.com/

Choosing a Breeder:  http://www.humanesociety.org/assets/pdfs/pets/puppy_mills/find_responsible_dog_breeder.pdf

Puppy Mills:  http://www.aspca.org/fight-cruelty/puppy-mills

Part 1: Choosing a New Companion

So you want to add a dog to your family.  Where do you start?


Breeds

The very first thing you need to do is figure out what breed you want- or if you don't need a purebred dog.

If you want:  a working dog; a dog for obedience, agility, or other activities; a dog that has specific qualities such as being good with small children, being naturally quiet, or not shedding; a dog that looks a particular way, etc., then you want a purebred dog.  Purebred dogs allow you to have the most accurate guess as to the size, shape, intelligence, temperament, etc., of the dog you are bringing home.

If you want:  a lovable family pet; to rescue a dog that might not have a chance; an adult dog who has been tested with children and other pets; to pick out a dog that really seems to bond with you, then you want to rescue a mixed breed (or un-pedigreed purebred, in some cases).  Choosing an adult dog from a rescue allows you to see exactly what you're getting out of an adult.  Rescues usually evaluate dogs in terms of their compatibility with children and other animals, you can see the size and coat they will have the rest of their lives, and so forth.

Rescues will be addressed more in part 2- this section will focus on choosing the right breed for you.


Types of Dogs

Kennel clubs have broken dog breeds up into a number of groups based on their original purpose.  Knowing what these groups are will help you narrow down your breed choice.  (The groups are given different names by the AKC/UKC, AKC is listed first below.  The groups don't line up precisely so there may be some overlap.)


Sporting/Gundogs

These dogs were bred to hunt with human partners.  They find and indicate game, retrieve birds and other game after it has been shot, "flush" birds and other animals out into the open for hunters, etc.  These dogs are highly affectionate and trainable, very loyal to their owners, typically great with families, and many have what is called a "soft mouth", a natural tendency not to bite down hard on anything.  It was meant to keep them from ruining game birds, but it makes them less "mouthy" than some other breeds.
Ideal For:  Active families, families with children, outdoorsy types.
Not Great For:  People who live in apartments or don't have large yards, anyone without adequate time to exercise them properly every day.
Includes: Setters, Spaniels, Pointers, Retrievers


Working/Guardian

While "working" is slightly ambiguous, "guardian" more closely typifies these breeds.  These are dogs that were bred to protect people and property.  Working breeds are medium to large breed dogs, with a strong work ethic, intense loyalty, and a courageous and fearless demeanor.  These dogs are not advised for inexperienced handlers, as their protective instinct and strong work ethic must be carefully managed to avoid aggression issues.  Some of these breeds may have trouble adapting to new additions to the household, and all tend to be wary of strangers.
Ideal For:  Adult households or those with children over 13, working homes, military and police work, owners with strong training knowledge.
Not Great For: First time dog owners, owners without the time or energy to train and exercise the dogs properly, apartments, owners that have difficulty disciplining their dogs.
Includes: Dobermans, Boxers, Mastiffs, Rottweilers, Great Danes



Herding/Herding

Breeds that were developed to assist with livestock, anywhere from geese and chickens up to cattle and horses.  Athletic, highly intelligent and trainable dogs with a strong desire to please.  This group includes some of the most intelligent breeds on the planet.  Their natures allow them to excel in many activities such as agility, obedience, rally, and more.  Many of these dogs have heavy double coats to protect them from the weather, this should always be taken into consideration.
Ideal For: Owners with a lot of land, families with respectful children, anyone interested in an activity such as obedience or agility, anyone looking for a medium to large breed with a solid personality and desire to please.
Not Great For: Apartments, being outdoor dogs in very hot climates, owners with no desire to train or exercise.
Includes: Shepherds, Corgis, Collies, Sheepdogs



Toy/Companion

As the names suggest, breeds developed solely as companions for humans.  These are all small breeds, the largest weighing no more than 20lbs.  Many have gorgeous coats and come in varieties of colors.  These are ideal companions for apartment and city dwellers.  Their size and natures mean they do not require extensive amounts of exercise, and while training is always advisable, these breeds will not be offended if you don't want to participate in an activity or job with them.  They just want to be with you!  The downsides of these breeds include grooming, as many are long-haired and require a lot of maintenance; also they do not do well with families that include small children.  Most toy dogs are naturally skittish of children due to their unpredictable and loud behaviors, and their tiny fragile bodies can be easily injured by a child who doesn't know better.
Ideal For: Adults, any elderly or handicapped owners who want a pet but cannot exercise them much, apartment and city life.
Not Great For: Small children, busy households, outdoor living.
Includes:  Chihuahuas, Yorkies, Shih Tzus, Pomeranians



Hounds/Scenthounds/Sighthounds

Breeds developed to use eyes and noses to track game.  Unlike gun dogs, these dogs were driven solely by their desire to hunt, and did not work closely with human handlers- they chased the game, and the hunters chased the dogs.  These breeds are notorious for getting lost because they'll start to chase game and forget to stop until they get lost!  They can be a challenge to train, but they have gentle natures and are great with children.  Most hounds are short-coated and easy to groom.
Ideal For: Hunters/trackers, families with moderate activity levels
Not Great For:  City living (sight hounds; they like to run); homes without a sturdy fenced yard (they tend to run/wander), owners who want a highly trainable and obedient dog (they are frequently independent and stubborn).
Includes: Hounds, Beagles, Harriers, Whippets



Terriers/Terriers

Ah, the terrier.  Ranging in size from small to quite large, terriers are hardy, bold, tenacious creatures.  Bred to control vermin indoors and out, these dogs are quite fearless.  Training can be challenging, and teaching them to be gentle is highly important as those strong jaws and sharp teeth can make for a very painful bite.  Most terriers have a wiry coat which makes them look "scruffy", but keeps water and dirt off their skin.  They do require grooming.
Ideal For: Farm life, places with room to run, some agility/obedience activities (they're very smart in spite of their stubborn streak), families with respectful older children.  Small terriers do well in apartments and city life.
Not Great For: Neat freaks (they tend towards destructive habits!), small children, owners with no inclination to train or groom their dogs, owners looking for an easily trainable dog.
Includes: Jack Russells, Cairn Terriers, Scotties, Wheatons, Bull Terriers, Airedale Terriers.


Non-Sporting/Companion

The Non-Sporting Group includes dogs from UKC's Companion & Northern groups.  These are dogs which either have been bred away from their original purpose, or served a purpose outside hunting and guarding.  This is a varied group in all ways.  Dogs in this category typically have no strong working drive or unusual habits.  Depending on their original function, they may or may not be suited to family life.  Because this class is a bit of a catch-all, you should research breeds carefully to determine where they came from and whether they will be right for you.
Includes: Dalmations, Chow Chows, Lhasa Apsos, Poodles, Bichons, American Eskimos


Northern Breeds

A UKC group, in AKC these breeds are mixed into Working and Non-Sporting.  As it suggests, these are the dogs that were bred for snowy climates.  Many were sled-pullers.  They are muscular, athletic dogs with heavy double coats to keep warm.  These breeds are energetic, driven, and typically hardy.  They can be independent and frequently have a high "prey drive" or desire to chase small creatures around, so be careful introducing cats and small animals.  They are usually not the best choice for small children.  People living in hot climates should pay extra attention to keeping them well groomed and giving them places to cool off.
Ideal For: Active adult homes, country living, can excel at many types of activities with a dedicated trainer.
Not Great For: Small children, people who don't want a shedding dog, extremely hot climates, apartment life, submissive handlers.
Includes: Huskies, Samoyed, Malamutes, Shiba Inus, Keeshonds, Akitas


Remember that each breed has it's own personality, you should research breeds that interest you in detail.  Groups just serve as a guide to start you in the right direction.

NEVER buy a puppy just because it's cute or your friend has one!  There are people who believe any dog can be raised to be what you want it to be- this is not the case.  Nurture can do a great deal, but we developed dog breeds for a reason, and each breed is born with certain traits and tendencies that cannot be overcome.  No matter how cute or pretty you find a particular breed, if it's personality directly contrasts what you want in a dog, it's not fair to yourself or the dog to push ahead and get one anyway.

Stay tuned for Part 2- Choosing Breeders & Rescues!

Oodles of Poodles

Just a fun little post- for Poodle owners, picking out a haircut can be both fun and difficult- unlike most breeds which have only one standard clip or a shave-down, Poodles have LOTS of options to choose from!

Here's a brief photographic look at some Poodle choices!


Show Styles

(Internet Image)

This clip is called the Continental Clip, most people think of it as a show clip since it is one of the standard clips used in the show ring.  Other people refer to it as the "poodle look", particularly those who aren't fond of pom-poms!  This clip is rarely seen outside the show ring.

(Internet Image)

English Saddle Clip- Another option for show ring contenders, less commonly used.  Also rarely seen outside the show ring.

(Internet Image)

Full Puppy Clip- allowed for show dogs under 1 year old.  Slightly fancier than the "puppy clip" pet owners typically ask for, which is really a pet trim.

(Internet Image)

Cords- they were fashionable back in the 70's or so.  Technically still allowed in the show ring, but rarely seen anywhere, in or out of the shows.

Pet Grooming

(Aly's Work)

The Continental (Modified)- A shorter, pet-friendly version.

(Aly's Work)

The Lion Clip- Sometimes called the "Sweetheart Clip"

Not commonly used, but a little less "fru-fru" than the Continental.

(Aly's Work)

The Miami or Bikini Clip- Everything shaved except head and poms.  A great summer-time option.

(Aly's Work)

The Lamb Clip/Kennel Clip (Depends who you ask.)  A very nice pet trim option.

(Aly's Work)

The German Clip- There are many variations of this, in this one you see the full ears and mustache face.

(Aly's Work)

A typical pet trim- one body length with the head piece, tail pom, and shaved feet/face look of a Poodle.  The body length can be adjusted easily.  This is the most common look for pet Poodles.

(Aly's Work)

Another type of pet trim, this time with a full round face, and no shaved feet.  This is a common look for those who like the non-shedding hair of Poodles, but don't really enjoy the "Poodle" look.

(Aly's Work)

The more traditional German Clip includes a clean face and shaved ears.  A nice masculine clip for Poodles.

Other Clips

(Internet Image)

The European- popular for grooming competitions as it requires a great deal of hand-scissoring.

(Internet Image)

Town & Country- Sometimes seen in pet grooming, but not popular.

(Internet Image)

And growing ever more popular in recent years- Creative Grooming, which involves decorating Poodles to look like other animals, or works of art, using color, scissoring, and accessories.

Two lessons to take away from this:

Never tell your groomer to make your dog look "like a Poodle".

Never tell your groomer to make your dog "NOT look like a Poodle".

Poodles are the single most varied breed of groomed dog in the world!

Muzzles: Beyond the Stereotype

What's the first thing that comes to your mind when you see this?

Vicious beast?  Animal cruelty?

Unfortunately, muzzles have gotten a bad rap over the years.  People who see them instinctively feel that either the dog is crazed and dangerous, or the person who applied the muzzle is nothing short of an abusive monster.  The fact is, muzzles are meant to provide safety.  Nothing more, nothing less.  The reasons for using muzzles are as varied as the dogs who wear them.

Let's address some common misunderstandings about muzzles.

1.  The dog is aggressive and dangerous.
In extreme cases, you may meet a dog who is required to be muzzled at all times for the protection of the public at large.  This is very rare.  Muzzles are mostly situational in nature.  The dog may be fearful of certain events or people, and may need the muzzle to prevent him from feeling cornered and striking out.  Or, he may be highly reactive to small things that move, and need a muzzle to control his impulses when out walking so that he doesn't bring home dead squirrels.  While you should never approach a muzzled dog without permission, do not assume that just because you see a dog wearing a muzzle, he is a violent killer.

2.  Muzzles are cruel and prevent the dog from breathing properly.
A well-fitted muzzle is safe to use in normal temperatures and conditions.  In other words, if a muzzle is needed during a vet visit, or grooming procedure, or even a walk around the block, as long as it's fitted correctly and the temperature is not extremely hot, the dog will be safe.  Fitted muzzles allow for breathing, panting, even eating and drinking.  Improperly fitted muzzles ARE dangerous, which is why you should always seek advice when choosing a muzzle for your dog.  The muzzle pictured about, though it looks uncomfortable, is actually made of soft plastic with leather linings, and is fitted correctly and comfortably on the dog's head.

This is a muzzle I don't like to see:

Though the material is soft, it works not by caging off the dog's muzzle as the first one does, but by pinning the jaws together so the dog cannot open up for a bite.  I find these muzzles far more dangerous, because to be tight enough to prevent biting, you are now interfering with the dog's respiration.


3.  Muzzles make the dog more aggressive.
Dogs should always be carefully conditioned to muzzles as a positive experience.  If you cram anything onto a dog's head in anger, you can expect a negative reaction.  Military and police dogs are routinely trained to wear muzzles as safety precautions, and they have no negative associations with them.  Racing greyhounds are often muzzled off the track because they have a tendency to grab for any small furry looking object that moves past them.

4.  Muzzles are just for people too lazy to train the dog properly.
Training is never a bad thing.  However, due to faulty temperaments, poor socialization, genetic predispositions, and a number of other concerns, there a times when a muzzle is simply necessary.  A dog who was roughly handled early in life may never settle down to the idea of having a nail trim done, or a vet exam given.  Dogs with poor eyesight may become reactive and snap at movement near their heads.  Owners and handlers should always work with the dog as much as possible to alleviate the stress and reactions, but muzzling is simply a safety precaution that should not be refused for the sake of appearances.  Nobody wants a dog to bite a human, animal, or hurt themselves trying to bite an object (grooming scissors, for example?).


There is much more that could be said on the subject, but hopefully this overview has been enough to get you thinking.  The next time you see a dog in a muzzle, or, perhaps see that YOUR dog has to be muzzled for a vet or groomer, keep in mind that a muzzle is not the end of the world, nor is it a judgement against your dog or your training.  It's a safety net- nothing more, nothing less.