Canine Chiropractics

Did you know that there are chiropractors for dogs too?  I didn't.  For the first 3 years of my dog's life, I figured if he was sore, he'd rest, and that was the end of that.  It wasn't until we entered the conformation ring that I discovered that a good chiropractic adjustment was considered standard pre-show routine for the majority of the dogs in the ring.  Not wanting him to be at a disadvantage, I scheduled and adjustment for him.

It was actually quite amazing.  At first, it didn't look like much, just some stretching and twisting and poking.  I heard a few joints crack, with the same little popping sound your knuckles make.  My dog seemed perfectly content and not at all disturbed by what the vet was doing, so I watched until she finished.  He jumped off the table, gave a big shake from head to toe- and struck a pose.  It was like he wanted to show off how much better he felt, he stood straight and tall and proud, looking unbelievably relaxed and comfortable.  The vet asked me to have him jog around a little bit, so I did.  He moved with a fluid grace I'd never seen before, his legs striding out further than before.  It's hard to describe exactly, but he looked different after just 15 minutes of manipulation.

As a working dog, his body is under constant strain- running, jumping hurdles, pulling carts, and so on.  The vet suggested monthly visits, and he has now been going faithfully every month for 6 months.  The following adjustments were not as dramatic as that first one, since only a month elapsed between each one instead of 3 years.  But the differences are still visible with each visit.

I even took photos.  The first photo was taken the day of his adjustment, a few hours before we went.  The second photo was taken as we left the vet.

To some they may look fairly similar, but in the first, he is clearly hunching his back and shoulders, trying to balance himself while obviously being stiff.  In the second, his stance is relaxed, natural, his head higher and happier.  

I suggested the treatments to a friend who also shows her dog, a Standard Poodle.  And my mother, with an elderly toy breed.  And my sister, with another German Shepherd who competes in agility.  

Everyone saw good results.  

So now, I'm passing the suggestion on to my friends and clients.  Any dog can benefit from these treatments, whether it's a dog with problems that needs regular work to improve his movement and functionality, or just a once or twice a year tune-up for a normal, healthy dog.  

Here is some information forwarded by my vet:

Many choose chiropractic to help their dog, cat or horse recover from an injury, to increase mobility, reduce arthritis pain and to treat chronic conditions and health problems.
You know your animal better than anyone. A change in behavior or mood is often a symptom that your pet is in pain, and might be caused by a joint that is not moving properly. Sometimes they may also experience changes in appetite.
Chiropractic benefits pets with both acute injuries and chronic conditions. It is also beneficial for injury prevention or to keep your pet healthy and happy, even when there is nothing wrong. 

Your pet may benefit from chiropractic care if you notice any of the following:

Your pet has difficulty rising from a lying down position or from sitting to standing
Your pet has muscle stiffness or weakness
Shaking /tremors in the limbs or the body
Mobility and gait abnormalities or limping
Different posture, i.e. hunched back, sitting on one hip rather than squarely
Your pet has been injured or there is a decreased performance in athletic ability
Bowel or bladder control problems
Changes in behavior, mood, or appetite

Your veterinarian diagnosed your pet with:
Neck, back or disc problems
Arthritis
Soft tissue muscle or ligament injury
Your pet experiences digestive upsets or Allergies and hot spots
TMJ problems or issues with chewing or dropping food
Your pet is sensitive to touch
Or, you just want to maintain a happy, healthy pet!

Pet owners report the following benefits and changes in their animals after they have received chiropractic care:

Decrease in pain and muscle spasms
Improved range-of-motion and mobility
Improved gait
Improved bladder control
Increased energy and improved health
Better temperament and mood
Improved athletic and event performance
Improved allergy symptoms
A happy, healthy animal!

- Dr Lee Carr

Arnold Pet Station

Arnold, MD

Could chiropractic care be right for your dog?  Almost certainly!  I hope you've found this information helpful.

Is My Dog Fat?

Obesity is one of the number one health concerns in America- and not just for humans.  Pets are also at a high risk for being overweight.

Pet owners tend to be sensitive about their pets' weight.  The most important thing to remember is, don't take it personally.  Nobody is trying to say you are a bad owner- on the contrary, owners of overweight pets either show their great love to their pets by feeding them treats and snacks, and/or they simply don't understand the health requirements of their pet.  Obesity is not a crime of neglect or poor ownership.  But it does have serious health ramifications, including diabetes and heart disease, which can be fatal, and so it is something that needs to be monitored and addressed.


So What Is Healthy Weight?

There are a few ways to determine healthy weight.  One, you should be able to feel ALL of your dog's ribs if you stroke down his side- without having to dig your fingertips in.  (On the other hand, it should never feel like playing a xylophone either!)  Second, when you look down on your dog from overhead, you should see an hourglass shape- wider ribs, thinner waist, wider hips.  If your dog is straight lines or bulges out to the sides, he is overweight.  Next, look at your dog from the side- the chest should be the lowest point of the body, just behind the elbows, and there should be a curve or "tuck up" so that the belly where it meets the hips is higher than the chest.

Healthy weight is never about numbers.  You can look at a dog, and feel a dog, and determine if it is a good weight.  The scale means nothing.

Healthy Weight vs Underweight

An unfortunate reality is that pet owners have decided that "chubby" is "cute".  Dogs are predators, they are designed for hard, lean muscle mass with very little body fat.  Some of the healthiest dogs in the world are decried as "skinny" or "malnourished" by the average pet owner.  As a result, owners plump their dogs up thinking they are doing them a favor, when in fact, they are harming them.  

This is unhealthy, underweight, malnourished, etc.  :

Notice the lack of muscle mass, that you can easily count ribs and vertebrae, the dog is not holding himself up well, etc.  This dog is not healthy.

Now observe this dog:

Though very lean, you can clearly see muscle definition, the spine and hips are completely covered over, you can only faintly see the rib cage definition, and the dog is holding herself in a happy, healthy pose.  This dog is not too skinny!  She's in excellent athletic shape.

Breed Myths

Some breeds have developed the perception that they ought to be fat or heavy- this is just people trying to ignore an obvious problem.  There is NO breed that should ever be fat- English Bulldogs, Pugs, French Bulldogs, are not mean to be roly-poly creatures, they can and should be well-muscled dogs with a highly defined waist.  Never fall back on the idea that your dog is allowed to be fat based on its breed.

Diet & Exercise

Just like people, diet and exercise are the foundations of a healthy dog.  If you are unable to increase your dog's exercise, strict feeding portions are a necessity to maintain healthy weight.  If your dog is able to get a large amount of good exercise, the feedings can be more lenient.  Quality food is always a good place to start.  You can refer to our blog entry The Great Debate to learn more about healthy food choices.  Just think of it this way:  a human COULD lose weight eating nothing but small portions of McDonald's every day... but is that really the best way to go?  Make sure you're starting with a healthy food source, it will make everything easier.

What constitutes good exercise?  For small dogs, no less than  30 minute walk daily is bare minimum.  60 minutes for large dogs.  Jogging or biking is always better than walking.  15-20 minute sessions of intense ball or frisbee throwing is also good.  Swimming is one of the best exercises out there, as it is low impact and good for all ages and breeds of dog.  More intense conditioning includes things like weight pulling, lure coursing, hiking, long distance biking, sledding, etc.  Again, don't be a slave to the breed myths!  Chihuahuas can pull hundreds of pounds in a harness and run for miles!    

Just remember to start slow!  If your dog is severely obese, a few weeks of dieting may be necessary to get some of the weight off before you can safely begin an exercise routine.  Start with short walks and build up the intensity as the dog's weight and condition improve.

Ready to See the Difference?

Anyone can tell you that all dogs can be fit and healthy- now, let's see it.

WRONG

RIGHT

One Last Thing

Pets can have diabetes, thyroid issues, heart disease, and a host of other health problems- if your pet is overweight, ALWAYS start with a visit to your vet to rule out any causes of obesity.  If your vet can't find anything wrong, then you can safely assume that the problem is diet & exercise, and put them on a path to success.

Don't Shave the Dog

It's springtime.  The weather is getting warmer, the pools are opening, the bugs are back and the ground is muddy.

For groomers, this means the return of the Spring Shave Down requests.  Many owners like to start the summer with a buzz cut for simplicity.  While this is a perfectly valid option for many dogs, it's important to understand that some dogs should never be shaved.

Hair vs Fur

There are 2 types of dog coats: hair and fur.  Hair is exactly what it sounds like- just like ours.  Straight, wavy or curly, it is a single coat of hairs that grows more or less indefinitely and sheds only when the individual hairs happen to actually die off.  And just like our hair, it will continue to grow back exactly the same no matter what we do to it.  Shaving these dogs is no problem at all.  Heavy long hair can and does trap heat during the summer months, so a shorter clip is actually advisable for these breeds.

Fur is different.  Fur frequently comes in double coats (guard/top hairs and undercoat).  It sheds.  And most importantly, it insulates the dog- from ALL weather.

It make sound counter-intuitive, but even though these coats are often thick and heavy looking, a fur coat is designed to keep the dog warm in winter and cool in summer- this is why some dogs "blow coat" or shed out heavily twice per year.  They are actually changing their coat out for a weather-appropriate one.

Shaving off this coat will make the hair shorter, yes.  That is all it will do however.  It will not cool the dog off- on the contrary, losing it's insulating layer will actually cause the dog to be more prone to heat stroke and sunburn.  Dogs do not sweat through their skin, so exposing their skin to open air actually does nothing to cool them.  Also, despite the common belief, shaving this type of coat will NOT reduce shedding.  The hair sheds just the same, it's just that for a while they shed the short, dead ends of the hair you've shaved, which are harder to see- but sharp and spiky, and frequently get stuck in skin and clothes causing itchiness.  Lastly, shaving this type of coat can damage it permanently, it may never grow back correctly again.

The best thing you can do for a double-coated breed is keep it properly groomed.  A good bath and brush out will keep the hair free of dead undercoat and fluffed up properly, which will keep the dog as comfortable as it can be it the hot summer months.  Regular grooming will also reduce the shedding and dandruff that many owners complain about.

If you have a longer coated breed such as a Golden Retriever or Chow, we can offer some trimming to help reduce the amount of hair you have to deal with- just don't shave them.

The longer "feathering" around the legs, belly, chest and rear are superfluous, and can be scissored down tight and neat to keep the dog cleaner and prevent matting without causing damage to the insulating layers of the coat.

This spring, talk to your groomer about the best summer grooming options for your dog.  Just because you've always done it one way, doesn't mean it's too late to find a better way!

A Sampling of Breeds You Shouldn't Shave:

Labs, Huskies, Golden Retrievers, Chows, Pomeranians, Akitas, Samoyeds, Shelties, Collies, German Shepherds, Pekingese, etc.

Can You Make Him Look Like That?

A constant note of discord between owners and groomers, is the owner's faithful perception that we, as groomers, can do anything.  It's flattering, but unfortunately it's unrealistic.  That gorgeous photograph you found of a Westminster grand champion is indeed a very pretty dog- but we can't make your dog look like that.

Why not?

Well, for a few reasons.  First, I'll address the reasons why a pet dog cannot look like a show dog.

1. Genetics

Most pet owners are not looking for a show dog when they buy a puppy- and therefore, most pet owners do not end up with a show dog.  Show dogs are not pets that people simply dolled up and threw in a show ring.  They are meticulously bred to meet very exacting physical standards, and have long and distinguished pedigrees of equally well-bred dogs.  There is nothing wrong with not owning a show dog, you simply need to understand that a dog with 10 generations bred for looks, is going to look better than a dog bred for other reasons.  We can only work inside the realm of what your dog has to work with, and if that means his coat is too thin, too wavy, too curly, or otherwise different from that "perfect" show dog- well, we can't fix that.  That doesn't mean he can't still be cute.

2. Lifestyle

Again, show dogs ARE show dogs- they are brushed and bathed constantly.  Some are even bathed every single day.  Long hair is rolled up into wrappers to keep it from getting dirty or damaged.  They do not get to play outside in the mud.  There are no little children creatively coloring them in with markers.  Every day is spent training, grooming, and primping.  Pet owners cannot match this.  Most pet dogs are bathed and groomed every 2-3 months.  The stains that build up in the meantime cannot be undone with one good bath.  Nor can a shaggy matted coat be brought into glossy silk perfection in one grooming.  Unless you want to live the life of a show-dog owner, your dog will not have that coat.  (And frankly, don't you think pet dogs have way more fun?)

3.  Grooming

When you have your dog groomed, you expect a bath, a haircut, a nail trim.  A good brushing.  Show dogs receive much, much more than that.  Ever wonder what makes their hair so straight and silky?  Hair products and flat irons.  How does their white get so white?  Heavy powdered chalk is worked into their coat before a show to make them appear flawlessly white- in reality, they have some staining and discoloration even in spite of their constant bathing.  Those perfect markings?  Often drawn-on with stick chalks.  Shiny coats?  Lots and lots of spray-on oils and conditioners.  That flawless Poodle pouf?  Hairspray and Southern-style teasing combs.  If it would really make you happy, we could do all those things for you- but it would only last about 5 minutes.  If you ever attend a show, you'll see that the handlers are hard at work grooming the dogs the entire time.  They only stop long enough to enter the ring, and as soon as they get out, they're fluffing and trimming and chalking for the next ring.  It's no different than a human beauty pageant- it's not a sustainable reality.

4.  Training

Show dogs are raised from birth to stand quietly and politely for grooming, even if it takes hours.  Pet dogs are not.  Groomers make the most of the time the dog is relatively calm, because after a while they typically start getting bored and dancing around with impatience.  Flawless scissoring isn't possible on a moving target.

Part 2

So aside from the Show Dog vs Pet Dog, what other reasons are there for groomers not being able to fulfill your photographic wishes?

1.  Breeds Vary

Even within a breed, there are a lot of differences in coat, size, texture, etc.  We'll do our best to imitate a cut, but if the dog pictured has a fuller or flatter coat, it may not look quite the same.

2.  Puppy Pictures

8 week old puppies are adorable.  That's why people buy them.  Unfortunately, they grow up.  No groomer can make an adult dog look like a 2-month old puppy again.  We can clip them down to a similar length, but the fluffy puppy hair will never come back again- nor will the sweet puppy face.

3.  Wrong Breed

The picture you found of a Yorkie might be adorable, but if you have a Lhasa Apso, there are going to be some technical difficulties in trying to get the haircuts to match.  Again, we can do our best, but we can't transform your dog into a new breed altogether.

Bottom line?  Try to be realistic in what you're looking for.  Be honest with yourself about how much brushing you really want to do between grooms.  Let your dog enjoy life without being hampered by insane hairdos.  And realize that your groomer is trying their very best to give you want you want, even if it's impossible.  

Part 2: Choosing Your New Companion

A quick overview of how and where to find a dog or puppy for you.  Second section of the previous post regarding choosing a breed for you.



Dog or Puppy?

The very first decision you'll need to make is whether to start with a young puppy, or an adult dog.

Everybody wants a puppy because puppies are cute.  Unfortunately, it only takes a few minutes on Craigslist or any other classifieds to see hundreds of puppies being re-adopted.  Why?  Because puppies are extremely hard work.  Proper housebreaking requires potty breaks every 1-2 hours for the first several weeks.  Small puppies need frequent meals to regulate their blood sugar.  Puppies often don't sleep well at night, leaving you exhausted.  And of course, they wander, chew, dig, and break every house rule they haven't learned yet.

There are advantages to having puppies.  If you have a family or other pets, it's easier to imprint puppies on how to interact with them properly.  You can train a puppy to recognize the name you want to use, and the commands you want to use.  House rules like staying off furniture are easier to train young.

Adult dogs bring their own advantages.  They're already housebroken.  If you're adopting from a rescue, and frequently even if you're not, adult dogs are typically vaccinated and possibly spayed/neutered already.  Adult dogs are cheaper to acquire- even rescues often charge extra for young puppies.  You know exactly how big the dog will be and what it will look and act like, so there won't be any surprises.

The decision is ultimately a personal one- just make sure you look at all the pros and cons, and try to choose based on what is best for your family and the pet you're bringing home- and NOT your overwhelming desire to snuggle with a cute puppy for a few months.  No matter what age the dog starts out, they all end up adults.  Puppyhood should not be what drives you to bring home a pet.


Breeder or Rescue?

Once you've decided what age you want, the next question is, where to get the puppy from?

Pet stores are a no-no.  They've insinuated themselves into our culture and made us believe they are normal and acceptable places to buy pets.  The reality is, no good breeder will sell puppies to a pet store.  Pet stores are 100% driven by puppy mills.  I will not waste blog space going into detail about these places, but if you don't know what a puppy mill is, follow the link for information.

http://www.aspca.org/fight-cruelty/puppy-mills


Breeders are the best choice if you want to start with a puppy.  You can often find puppies for re-homing, but if you're not getting a puppy directly from the source, you're losing out on many advantages.  A breeder can show you the parents, talk to you in detail about the bloodlines the dog comes from, show you health certifications regarding hips, elbows, eyes, hearts, etc., that prove how healthy the dog's family was, etc.  A good breeder can predict with great accuracy the size, color, and temperament an individual puppy will attain.  If you get a puppy second-hand, all you have to go on is what the first purchaser remembered, and possibly a few scraps of paperwork they thought to save.  It's not wrong to get a puppy from someone else, it simply leaves you with less information.

Breeders often have adults available as well.  Good breeders have a "return" policy so to speak, wherein they will always take back any dog they have sold for any reason if you are not able to keep it.  They will often find good homes for these dogs if that happens.  Other times they will offer retired show or breeding dogs for companion homes when their careers are over.  Many even do rescue work and help adopt out dogs that did not come from their bloodlines.  These are all great options.

Rescue comes in many forms: shelters, private rescues, and classified rehomings.  Whatever option you choose, there are a few things to remember.  First, YOU need to be in charge of choosing your companion.  Don't let whoever you're speaking with try to talk you into a certain dog- they mean well, but often they'll push the dogs who are older or have been at the shelter the longest, without regard to whether it's truly the best fit for you.  Set down guidelines for what you want BEFORE you step foot in a shelter or open a single picture online.  Those sad faces lead to rushed decisions, and often, to the dogs being returned to the shelter shortly afterwards.  Put limits on size, age, hair, etc. before you start, so you won't be tempted to bring home the first cute face you see.

If you're looking at private rehoming, anything over $200 is really a sale price- be leery of anyone "selling"  a dog for a ridiculous price.  Also be sure to get any vet records or registration papers in hand before you take the dog, don't agree to get them "later on".  The biggest concern with private rehomings is that there are a lot of scams out there nowadays.  Unless you feel truly confident in tackling this, stick with a reputable rescue group instead.

Choosing a Breeder

If you do go the breeder route, the first thing you need to know is all breeders are not created equal.  There is a line drawn between  "good" breeders, and "backyard" breeders.  If you're paying good money for a specific puppy, you want to make sure it's a "good" breeder.

The first thing you need to do is read through your breed's standard.  (Links at the bottom of the page.)  The purpose of a good breeding program is to breed dogs which adhere to the written standard of the breed.  A surefire way to find bad breeders is to look for catchwords like "super micro teacup", "ultra rare colors", and things along that line.  Those breeders are trying to make money by breeding dogs intentionally outside the standards and hoping people will pay for their "uniqueness".  These breeders ruin purebred dogs.  If a dog is supposed to weigh 50lbs, breeding them to weigh 100lbs is directly damaging to their gene pool.  It's also just plain silly.  We have over 200 breeds of dogs available to choose from, why ruin the ones we have to try to make them into something else?

The second concern is health testing.  This does not mean the dog has been to the vet this year and gotten his vaccines.  Health tests look for potential genetic issues in the bloodline.  German Shepherds and Golden Retrievers for example, should always have hip and elbow checks done.  The breeder should have information on both parents, and probably the entire bloodline if they're any good.  Other breeds are prone to heart conditions, eye problems, genetic blood disorders, and so forth.  Again, more research is needed on your part!  Learn what your breed is prone to, and demand to see the health testing for it.  If a breeder doesn't have any advanced health testing, run away.

Good breeders will typically only breed one type of dog, MAYBE two.  Always be wary of breeders with 3 or more types of puppies available- they're typically in it only for the money.

Depending on what type of dog you're getting, you want to see some sort of qualification for breeding.  Simply having a male and female dog, even if they are both registered, does NOT qualify for a good reason to breed.  Breeding programs are built around proving the dogs meet the requirements of their breed.  This can include AKC/UKC show titles (champion, grand champion, etc), working events such as agility, terrier racing, lure-coursing, field hunting trials, Schutzhund, Search & Rescue, Therapy dog certifications, mushing (dog sledding), and so forth.  Different breeds are meant for different things, and each breed will have a set of activities to show off their intended purpose.  If a breeder is not participating in any functional activities, they are not breeding quality dogs.  How can you have a well bred Labrador if you've never hunted with them?  What is the point of breeding a terrier that won't trail vermin?  When you breed for the sake of breeding, you lose the qualities that make each breed unique, and you damage the gene pools further and further with each litter of puppies.

If you find a breeder who is breeding to the standard, has the appropriate health testing done, and works/shows their dogs, you are in the clear.  Different breeders will have different standards at this point (some will want to pick out a puppy for you, some will want you to travel to them instead of shipping the puppy, etc.) but if those 3 big things are in place, there's no much chance you've found a backyard breeder, so the various quirks of the individual breeder are less important.


Choosing a Rescue

Rescues and shelters are even more varied than breeders.  If you're looking for a purebred, there are many purebred rescue groups in most states.  There are also SPCA and Humane Society shelters, city pounds, and more.  Petfinder.com is a great place to get started, many shelters and rescue groups post their available animals to this website for better exposure.

As with anything, look into the group you want to work with ahead of time- there are scammers out there posing as rescues.  These groups often pick up animals from "free to good home" ads online or other cheap sources, and then "adopt" them out with exorbitant fees.   And again, be careful with private adoptions.  In addition to charging overpriced fees, private owners may try to give you a sick or injured dog, or a stolen animal.  Worse, there have been incidents with some websites where people coming to meet potential pets have been attacked, mugged, carjacked, etc.  Never go to look at a pet alone, always bring at least one person with you and tell someone where you'll be going and how long you'll be- safety first.


References

Breed Standards
AKC:  https://www.akc.org/breeds/complete_breed_list.cfm
UKC:  http://www.ukcdogs.com/Web.nsf/WebPages/DogEvents/BreedStandards

Petfinder:  http://www.petfinder.com/

Choosing a Breeder:  http://www.humanesociety.org/assets/pdfs/pets/puppy_mills/find_responsible_dog_breeder.pdf

Puppy Mills:  http://www.aspca.org/fight-cruelty/puppy-mills

Part 1: Choosing a New Companion

So you want to add a dog to your family.  Where do you start?


Breeds

The very first thing you need to do is figure out what breed you want- or if you don't need a purebred dog.

If you want:  a working dog; a dog for obedience, agility, or other activities; a dog that has specific qualities such as being good with small children, being naturally quiet, or not shedding; a dog that looks a particular way, etc., then you want a purebred dog.  Purebred dogs allow you to have the most accurate guess as to the size, shape, intelligence, temperament, etc., of the dog you are bringing home.

If you want:  a lovable family pet; to rescue a dog that might not have a chance; an adult dog who has been tested with children and other pets; to pick out a dog that really seems to bond with you, then you want to rescue a mixed breed (or un-pedigreed purebred, in some cases).  Choosing an adult dog from a rescue allows you to see exactly what you're getting out of an adult.  Rescues usually evaluate dogs in terms of their compatibility with children and other animals, you can see the size and coat they will have the rest of their lives, and so forth.

Rescues will be addressed more in part 2- this section will focus on choosing the right breed for you.


Types of Dogs

Kennel clubs have broken dog breeds up into a number of groups based on their original purpose.  Knowing what these groups are will help you narrow down your breed choice.  (The groups are given different names by the AKC/UKC, AKC is listed first below.  The groups don't line up precisely so there may be some overlap.)


Sporting/Gundogs

These dogs were bred to hunt with human partners.  They find and indicate game, retrieve birds and other game after it has been shot, "flush" birds and other animals out into the open for hunters, etc.  These dogs are highly affectionate and trainable, very loyal to their owners, typically great with families, and many have what is called a "soft mouth", a natural tendency not to bite down hard on anything.  It was meant to keep them from ruining game birds, but it makes them less "mouthy" than some other breeds.
Ideal For:  Active families, families with children, outdoorsy types.
Not Great For:  People who live in apartments or don't have large yards, anyone without adequate time to exercise them properly every day.
Includes: Setters, Spaniels, Pointers, Retrievers


Working/Guardian

While "working" is slightly ambiguous, "guardian" more closely typifies these breeds.  These are dogs that were bred to protect people and property.  Working breeds are medium to large breed dogs, with a strong work ethic, intense loyalty, and a courageous and fearless demeanor.  These dogs are not advised for inexperienced handlers, as their protective instinct and strong work ethic must be carefully managed to avoid aggression issues.  Some of these breeds may have trouble adapting to new additions to the household, and all tend to be wary of strangers.
Ideal For:  Adult households or those with children over 13, working homes, military and police work, owners with strong training knowledge.
Not Great For: First time dog owners, owners without the time or energy to train and exercise the dogs properly, apartments, owners that have difficulty disciplining their dogs.
Includes: Dobermans, Boxers, Mastiffs, Rottweilers, Great Danes



Herding/Herding

Breeds that were developed to assist with livestock, anywhere from geese and chickens up to cattle and horses.  Athletic, highly intelligent and trainable dogs with a strong desire to please.  This group includes some of the most intelligent breeds on the planet.  Their natures allow them to excel in many activities such as agility, obedience, rally, and more.  Many of these dogs have heavy double coats to protect them from the weather, this should always be taken into consideration.
Ideal For: Owners with a lot of land, families with respectful children, anyone interested in an activity such as obedience or agility, anyone looking for a medium to large breed with a solid personality and desire to please.
Not Great For: Apartments, being outdoor dogs in very hot climates, owners with no desire to train or exercise.
Includes: Shepherds, Corgis, Collies, Sheepdogs



Toy/Companion

As the names suggest, breeds developed solely as companions for humans.  These are all small breeds, the largest weighing no more than 20lbs.  Many have gorgeous coats and come in varieties of colors.  These are ideal companions for apartment and city dwellers.  Their size and natures mean they do not require extensive amounts of exercise, and while training is always advisable, these breeds will not be offended if you don't want to participate in an activity or job with them.  They just want to be with you!  The downsides of these breeds include grooming, as many are long-haired and require a lot of maintenance; also they do not do well with families that include small children.  Most toy dogs are naturally skittish of children due to their unpredictable and loud behaviors, and their tiny fragile bodies can be easily injured by a child who doesn't know better.
Ideal For: Adults, any elderly or handicapped owners who want a pet but cannot exercise them much, apartment and city life.
Not Great For: Small children, busy households, outdoor living.
Includes:  Chihuahuas, Yorkies, Shih Tzus, Pomeranians



Hounds/Scenthounds/Sighthounds

Breeds developed to use eyes and noses to track game.  Unlike gun dogs, these dogs were driven solely by their desire to hunt, and did not work closely with human handlers- they chased the game, and the hunters chased the dogs.  These breeds are notorious for getting lost because they'll start to chase game and forget to stop until they get lost!  They can be a challenge to train, but they have gentle natures and are great with children.  Most hounds are short-coated and easy to groom.
Ideal For: Hunters/trackers, families with moderate activity levels
Not Great For:  City living (sight hounds; they like to run); homes without a sturdy fenced yard (they tend to run/wander), owners who want a highly trainable and obedient dog (they are frequently independent and stubborn).
Includes: Hounds, Beagles, Harriers, Whippets



Terriers/Terriers

Ah, the terrier.  Ranging in size from small to quite large, terriers are hardy, bold, tenacious creatures.  Bred to control vermin indoors and out, these dogs are quite fearless.  Training can be challenging, and teaching them to be gentle is highly important as those strong jaws and sharp teeth can make for a very painful bite.  Most terriers have a wiry coat which makes them look "scruffy", but keeps water and dirt off their skin.  They do require grooming.
Ideal For: Farm life, places with room to run, some agility/obedience activities (they're very smart in spite of their stubborn streak), families with respectful older children.  Small terriers do well in apartments and city life.
Not Great For: Neat freaks (they tend towards destructive habits!), small children, owners with no inclination to train or groom their dogs, owners looking for an easily trainable dog.
Includes: Jack Russells, Cairn Terriers, Scotties, Wheatons, Bull Terriers, Airedale Terriers.


Non-Sporting/Companion

The Non-Sporting Group includes dogs from UKC's Companion & Northern groups.  These are dogs which either have been bred away from their original purpose, or served a purpose outside hunting and guarding.  This is a varied group in all ways.  Dogs in this category typically have no strong working drive or unusual habits.  Depending on their original function, they may or may not be suited to family life.  Because this class is a bit of a catch-all, you should research breeds carefully to determine where they came from and whether they will be right for you.
Includes: Dalmations, Chow Chows, Lhasa Apsos, Poodles, Bichons, American Eskimos


Northern Breeds

A UKC group, in AKC these breeds are mixed into Working and Non-Sporting.  As it suggests, these are the dogs that were bred for snowy climates.  Many were sled-pullers.  They are muscular, athletic dogs with heavy double coats to keep warm.  These breeds are energetic, driven, and typically hardy.  They can be independent and frequently have a high "prey drive" or desire to chase small creatures around, so be careful introducing cats and small animals.  They are usually not the best choice for small children.  People living in hot climates should pay extra attention to keeping them well groomed and giving them places to cool off.
Ideal For: Active adult homes, country living, can excel at many types of activities with a dedicated trainer.
Not Great For: Small children, people who don't want a shedding dog, extremely hot climates, apartment life, submissive handlers.
Includes: Huskies, Samoyed, Malamutes, Shiba Inus, Keeshonds, Akitas


Remember that each breed has it's own personality, you should research breeds that interest you in detail.  Groups just serve as a guide to start you in the right direction.

NEVER buy a puppy just because it's cute or your friend has one!  There are people who believe any dog can be raised to be what you want it to be- this is not the case.  Nurture can do a great deal, but we developed dog breeds for a reason, and each breed is born with certain traits and tendencies that cannot be overcome.  No matter how cute or pretty you find a particular breed, if it's personality directly contrasts what you want in a dog, it's not fair to yourself or the dog to push ahead and get one anyway.

Stay tuned for Part 2- Choosing Breeders & Rescues!

Oodles of Poodles

Just a fun little post- for Poodle owners, picking out a haircut can be both fun and difficult- unlike most breeds which have only one standard clip or a shave-down, Poodles have LOTS of options to choose from!

Here's a brief photographic look at some Poodle choices!


Show Styles

(Internet Image)

This clip is called the Continental Clip, most people think of it as a show clip since it is one of the standard clips used in the show ring.  Other people refer to it as the "poodle look", particularly those who aren't fond of pom-poms!  This clip is rarely seen outside the show ring.

(Internet Image)

English Saddle Clip- Another option for show ring contenders, less commonly used.  Also rarely seen outside the show ring.

(Internet Image)

Full Puppy Clip- allowed for show dogs under 1 year old.  Slightly fancier than the "puppy clip" pet owners typically ask for, which is really a pet trim.

(Internet Image)

Cords- they were fashionable back in the 70's or so.  Technically still allowed in the show ring, but rarely seen anywhere, in or out of the shows.

Pet Grooming

(Aly's Work)

The Continental (Modified)- A shorter, pet-friendly version.

(Aly's Work)

The Lion Clip- Sometimes called the "Sweetheart Clip"

Not commonly used, but a little less "fru-fru" than the Continental.

(Aly's Work)

The Miami or Bikini Clip- Everything shaved except head and poms.  A great summer-time option.

(Aly's Work)

The Lamb Clip/Kennel Clip (Depends who you ask.)  A very nice pet trim option.

(Aly's Work)

The German Clip- There are many variations of this, in this one you see the full ears and mustache face.

(Aly's Work)

A typical pet trim- one body length with the head piece, tail pom, and shaved feet/face look of a Poodle.  The body length can be adjusted easily.  This is the most common look for pet Poodles.

(Aly's Work)

Another type of pet trim, this time with a full round face, and no shaved feet.  This is a common look for those who like the non-shedding hair of Poodles, but don't really enjoy the "Poodle" look.

(Aly's Work)

The more traditional German Clip includes a clean face and shaved ears.  A nice masculine clip for Poodles.

Other Clips

(Internet Image)

The European- popular for grooming competitions as it requires a great deal of hand-scissoring.

(Internet Image)

Town & Country- Sometimes seen in pet grooming, but not popular.

(Internet Image)

And growing ever more popular in recent years- Creative Grooming, which involves decorating Poodles to look like other animals, or works of art, using color, scissoring, and accessories.

Two lessons to take away from this:

Never tell your groomer to make your dog look "like a Poodle".

Never tell your groomer to make your dog "NOT look like a Poodle".

Poodles are the single most varied breed of groomed dog in the world!

Muzzles: Beyond the Stereotype

What's the first thing that comes to your mind when you see this?

Vicious beast?  Animal cruelty?

Unfortunately, muzzles have gotten a bad rap over the years.  People who see them instinctively feel that either the dog is crazed and dangerous, or the person who applied the muzzle is nothing short of an abusive monster.  The fact is, muzzles are meant to provide safety.  Nothing more, nothing less.  The reasons for using muzzles are as varied as the dogs who wear them.

Let's address some common misunderstandings about muzzles.

1.  The dog is aggressive and dangerous.
In extreme cases, you may meet a dog who is required to be muzzled at all times for the protection of the public at large.  This is very rare.  Muzzles are mostly situational in nature.  The dog may be fearful of certain events or people, and may need the muzzle to prevent him from feeling cornered and striking out.  Or, he may be highly reactive to small things that move, and need a muzzle to control his impulses when out walking so that he doesn't bring home dead squirrels.  While you should never approach a muzzled dog without permission, do not assume that just because you see a dog wearing a muzzle, he is a violent killer.

2.  Muzzles are cruel and prevent the dog from breathing properly.
A well-fitted muzzle is safe to use in normal temperatures and conditions.  In other words, if a muzzle is needed during a vet visit, or grooming procedure, or even a walk around the block, as long as it's fitted correctly and the temperature is not extremely hot, the dog will be safe.  Fitted muzzles allow for breathing, panting, even eating and drinking.  Improperly fitted muzzles ARE dangerous, which is why you should always seek advice when choosing a muzzle for your dog.  The muzzle pictured about, though it looks uncomfortable, is actually made of soft plastic with leather linings, and is fitted correctly and comfortably on the dog's head.

This is a muzzle I don't like to see:

Though the material is soft, it works not by caging off the dog's muzzle as the first one does, but by pinning the jaws together so the dog cannot open up for a bite.  I find these muzzles far more dangerous, because to be tight enough to prevent biting, you are now interfering with the dog's respiration.


3.  Muzzles make the dog more aggressive.
Dogs should always be carefully conditioned to muzzles as a positive experience.  If you cram anything onto a dog's head in anger, you can expect a negative reaction.  Military and police dogs are routinely trained to wear muzzles as safety precautions, and they have no negative associations with them.  Racing greyhounds are often muzzled off the track because they have a tendency to grab for any small furry looking object that moves past them.

4.  Muzzles are just for people too lazy to train the dog properly.
Training is never a bad thing.  However, due to faulty temperaments, poor socialization, genetic predispositions, and a number of other concerns, there a times when a muzzle is simply necessary.  A dog who was roughly handled early in life may never settle down to the idea of having a nail trim done, or a vet exam given.  Dogs with poor eyesight may become reactive and snap at movement near their heads.  Owners and handlers should always work with the dog as much as possible to alleviate the stress and reactions, but muzzling is simply a safety precaution that should not be refused for the sake of appearances.  Nobody wants a dog to bite a human, animal, or hurt themselves trying to bite an object (grooming scissors, for example?).


There is much more that could be said on the subject, but hopefully this overview has been enough to get you thinking.  The next time you see a dog in a muzzle, or, perhaps see that YOUR dog has to be muzzled for a vet or groomer, keep in mind that a muzzle is not the end of the world, nor is it a judgement against your dog or your training.  It's a safety net- nothing more, nothing less.

The Great Debate: Dog Food

You've probably seen dog food controversies in the news lately.  So what's the scoop?

Up until about WWII, there was not really such thing as "dog food".  Most dogs were simply given the scraps and carcasses of whatever the family was cooking that day- in other words, meat, bones, and organs, served raw, and whatever other pickings they wanted out of the leftovers before it was given over to the pigs.  Doesn't sound very nice does it?

But wait... that's what dogs are supposed to eat.

I doubt you've ever seen a wolf, coyote, or fox raiding a corn field or munching on some tasty grass.  Why?  Dogs are carnivores.

Kingdom:	Animalia
Phylum:	Chordata
Class:	Mammalia
Order:	Carnivora
Family:	Canidae
Genus:	Canis
Species:	C. lupus
Subspecies:	C. l. familiaris[1]

This is the taxonomic classification for the pet dog.  Order?  Carnivora.  You'll sometimes hear claims that dogs are omnivores (this is circulated by pet food companies to insure you'll buy their grain-loaded products), but according to scientists, who generally know what they're talking about, dogs are in fact, carnivores.  

So what happened?

Well, family life in first world countries changed.  People no longer butcher chickens for dinner.  There isn't usually a large amount of raw carcass scraps available on a daily basis.  So to answer this need, companies jumped in to produce commercial pet foods.  Unfortunately, they got it all wrong.  

In an effort to keep it cheap, most pet foods are based on grains, particularly corn, which provide zero nutrition and a huge number of allergens and irritants to dogs.  Then they add cheap vegetable and fruit scraps to bulk it up even more- with still no nutritional value.  Finally, they dumped in some meat scraps and a powdered vitamin supplement and called it a balanced diet.  The result?  Pet dogs lifespans began to shorten, health problems increased, and people blamed everything and everyone except the main cause: pet food.

Why Is Commercial Pet Food So Bad?

So this is what's in your average bag of pet food, by correct proportions.  Looks more like you're baking cornbread or feeding a cow, then making dog food.

Commercial dog foods are made primarily from cheap filler ingredients like the corn and flours.  

The "meat" based ingredients are slaughterhouse scraps that are unfit for any other use.  Feathers, beaks, feet, and other things that even a dog wouldn't normally consume, are all ground up together with very little actual good meat and bone product.  There are no regulations for this product, so often the scraps are rancid before they're even processed.

What else could be in there?  Well, in the real cheap brands you'll find listings for "meat meal" or "meat by-products".  The reason they don't specify the protein source?  If they only call it meat, they can then use things like euthanized pet animals as a a food source.  And roadkill.  And items discarded from grocery stores and restaurants as unfit for human consumption.  

And they do.

The bottom line is, there is very little nutrition in these foods, and because they are so unregulated, they are frequently contaminated with antibiotics and other veterinary drugs, foreign substances, even toxins.  Thousands of pets have died in recent years from contaminated pet foods.

Food Recalls From the FDA:
http://www.fda.gov/animalVeterinary/safetyhealth/recallswithdrawals/default.htm

If you want to read something truly scary, read the recent health reports that humans coming in contact with dog food ingredients in factories, have actually been falling ill from exposure to dangerous toxins.  Which they then put into dog food and serve to your dog.

Toxic Exposure in Pet Food Workers:
http://truthaboutpetfood2.com/if-it-is-this-bad-for-employees-what-is-it-doing-to-pets

So What's the Answer?

There are a few options available.

Some people have trouble letting go of the "balanced diet" idea and cook homemade meals of meat, veggies, rice, or pasta for their dogs.  While not biologically relevant, fresh veggie and carb sources are a lot less detrimental than the crap they put in dog food.  

There are also freeze-dried foods made from similar ingredients that are considered safe and healthy.

The best choice, however, is simply going back to the way we fed dogs for thousands of years before this money-grubbing industry was invented:  meat and bones.  

A dog's digestive system has not changed since we domesticated them.  They are still wolves and foxes and coyotes when it comes to how they process food.  And wild carnivores thrive on high protein, high fat diets.  

You can buy raw foods, which are typically meat and bone ground and frozen for convenience.  You can also just buy meats from your local butcher and feed them whole.  Bones?  Yes please!  Bones are safe and healthy as long as basic rules are followed:  Hard bones (like beef and venison) should be too big to swallow whole.  Chicken and poultry bones soften quickly in stomach acid, but it never hurts to make sure they have to chew it a couple times before it can go down.  Raw bones do not splinter and leave sharp edges, the stories you hear of dogs choking or impacting on bones are always cooked.  Organ meat is also important for trace minerals, livers, tripe, hearts, gizzards, etc. are all healthy and appreciated!  

That Sounds Like a Lot of Work... What's the Benefit?

In a word: Everything.

Raw feeding has been proven to produce the following results:

-Healthier skin and coat.  Less dandruff, thick, fuller fur. 

-Reduction or elimination of allergies, hot spots, etc.

-Healthier teeth, fresher breath.

-Smaller feces, no diarrhea.  

-Decreased risk of bloat in bloat-prone breeds

-Better weight management

-Lower risk of diabetes, organ dysfunctions, other systemic issues

-Reduction of health issues such as seizures, arthritis

-Higher energy level, less stress/anxiety behaviors

-Lower risk of cancers

-Healthier immune system

-Longer lifespan

Wait, What About Salmonella?

Food-borne illness has always been a stumbling block for potential raw feeders.  The surprising fact is however, dogs won't catch salmonella from raw meat sources.  Why? They have a very short, very acidic digestive tract fully intended to deal with these bacteria.  Where WILL they catch salmonella from?  Commercial dog foods.  Pets and humans can both get sick from salmonella-tainted commercial foods, because in that case, the concentrations of salmonella are far higher than what you would find naturally in the meat itself, and neither our systems nor theirs can overcome the bacteria load.

Salmonella Contamination in Commercial Pet Foods:
http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2013/12/pet-food-safety-when-pet-food-makes-pets-and-humans-sick/#.Ut6ivBAo6Uk

Personal Notes

I've fed my dogs raw for the past 6 years, and all the promises this feeding method makes, have been proven to me each and every day.  My dogs are healthy, lean, have never fallen ill, have fantastic teeth, and are energetic and playful.  My going-on 7 year old Papillon still acts like a young puppy and has never had a health issue.  My 3 year old German Shepherd is a high-energy working dog, and has never suffered from the poor digestion, hot spots and skin issue that German Shepherds are notoriously plagued with.  And in that time, I have not had a single instance of food-borne illness or other food-related concern.

As a groomer, I see a wide range of health issues in my clients every day, allergies, hot spots, skin problems, obesity, bad teeth, chronic ear infections, and more.  And whenever I ask about diet, they are invariably fed commercial dog foods, and the worse the health issues are, always coincides with the poor quality of the brand of food being given.  I've been grooming for 10 years, and I have always inquired about a dog's diet when asked about health concerns.  I have never, ever seen a raw-fed or naturally fed dog display any major health problem.  It is always the commercial kibble eaters who suffer.  Anecdotal evidence?  Yes.  But it's 10 years of anecdotal evidence, so I feel like that counts for quite a bit.

Family Dogs- All Fed Raw

 Lupa- 4 Years Old

 Pippin- 12 Years, Hamlet- 8 Years, Shakespeare- 6 Years

(In Order)

Ruff- 3 Years Old

Karma- 6 Years Old

I've provided some links below for further information on commercial foods and raw diets.  As always, I'm happy to provide personal feedback, just email me at gentletouchllc@gmail.com.

Raw Feeding Guide

http://rawfeddogs.org/rawguide.html

http://rawfed.com/myths/feedraw.html
http://www.rawdogranch.com/

Benefits of Raw Food

http://rawfeddogs.org/benefits.html

Truth About Pet Foods

http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-industry-exposed/shocking-truth-about-dog-food/

http://www.thedogbowl.com/PPF/category_ID/37/dogbowl.asp

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/dog-food-ten-scary-truths/